Brand or bland - why the play-it-safe look is always in vogue for lawyers

'Branding' is the new big buzzword among the legal set these days - it's up there with 'teamwork' and 'collaboration' and other concepts strange and exotic to most lawyers. Sure, we sort of know what 'teamwork' entails (eg, lawyers sharing Chinese takeaways around a conference table), but does anyone really know what branding means for law firms and lawyers?

Your firm is probably paying consultants a bundle to figure out this brand thing. But I'd like to talk about an aspect that they probably wouldn't touch: your looks - and how they affect your personal brand.

Yes, it's a shallow topic, but looks always play a role in the game of success. But it's not just about looking 'decent' or 'good' - it's about looking the part. Do you have a 'look' that says you are one hell of a litigator, or the go-to corporate strategist? Is your suit, tie, dress, shoes, briefcase - the whole package - delivering the message that you merit your hourly rate? And is your look keeping up with the clients you serve?

The new look of power, according to a recent article in the business section of The New York Times, is to dress down - or, at least, unconventionally. Among those singled out by the NYT for their unique personal brands: Chrysler chief executive Sergio Marchionne (jumpers and pressed shirts); Apple founder Steve Jobs (jeans and rumpled black cotton turtlenecks); Facebook founder Mark Zuckerberg (hoodies and trainers); and Avon chief executive Andrea Jung (fitted sleeveless dresses, sans jacket), who's also famous for her long hair with a sweep of side bangs.

All these execs can afford to wear anything they want, "yet the bare-bones personal uniform is being seen in some corner offices as the ultimate power suit," writes the NYT. The upshot is that the more powerful you are, the more room you have to be casual, even sloppy.

So are lawyers ready to follow their example? Not yet. For most lawyers, the uniform is still the conservative suit (though women can get away with a dress and jacket). Image consultant Diana Jennings says it's a uniform that conveys the "message of authority, precision, and stability that lawyers need to communicate".

But Jennings warns that dressing conservatively doesn't mean being outdated: "If you're not current in your presentation, the perception is that you are not current in thinking." She advises getting a stylish haircut and wearing current styles, "or you'll be seen as stodgy or staid."

Think of that uniform as a canvas for personal expression, says Susan Scafidi, the director of The Fashion Law Institute at Fordham Law School. "Everyone can pick out signature accessories," she says, but adds, "Figural jewellery should be tasteful. Unless you represent major gambling interests, skip the cufflinks shaped like dice or pound signs."

So let me see if I have all this straight: Dress conservatively, but make sure you're conservative in a trendy way. Also, wear distinctive accessories, but don't be gauche or overdo it with the jewellery.

Lawyers need a distinct look, a little 'wow' factor - but they can't be obvious about it. It's all a delicate balancing act, isn't it? No wonder lawyers are still stuck in the 1980s. For men, it's the old starched white shirt (often with those pretentious monograms on the pocket or cuffs), an expensive but unmemorable tie, and cufflinks. For women, the defaults remain clunky gold jewellery and St John knit suits. A bit pathetic, no?

But it's tough for lawyers to broadcast a 'look'. Even my stylish friend Jennifer, an entertainment lawyer in LA, voices ambivalence about showing a bit of flash: "I think that we should look professional, but not draw attention to our appearance. Service providers need to focus on service and advancing their clients' objectives, not creating their own 'brand.' That's not our job."

This article first appeared on The Careerist, a blog by the American Lawyer Media Group. Click here to follow Vivia Chen on Twitter.

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